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THE FLAVORS OF OLIVE OIL By Sheilah Kaufman
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Homer referred to it as "liquid gold", and it has been more than food to the peoples of the Mediterranean: it was everything from medicine and cosmetics, to a symbol of wealth and power. The tree itself has been a symbol of abundance, glory and peace, and its branches were used to crown the victorious in games and war. The oil of the olive has been used to anoint the heads of kings and queens throughout history.

"One of the most ancient foods, olive oil has been a part of the human diet for thousands of years,… and at its best, olive oil remains essentially the same pure juice of the olive it has always been." Fossilized remains of the olive tree's ancestors were found near Livorno Italy, and date back 20,000,000 years. It is thought that cultivation did not begin in that area until the fifth century BC. Olives were first cultivated in the Eastern part of the Mediterranean, in the region known as the "fertile crescent," and then moved westward from there. It spread from Crete to Syria, Palestine, Israel, Southern Turkey, Cyprus and Egypt. Greece was the most cultivated area until about 1500 BC. As Greek colonies expanded, olive culture reached Southern Italy and Northern Africa in the eighth century BC, and spread into Southern France. Olive trees were planted in the entire Mediterranean basin under Roman rule.

According to Italian folk traditions, sun, stone, drought, silence, and solitude are the ingredients that create the ideal habitat for the olive tree.

According to La Cucina Italiana: "extra-virgin olive oil is the most digestible of the edible fats; it helps to assimilate vitamins A, D, and K; and contains so-called essential acids that cannot be produced by our own bodies; it slows down the aging process; and it helps bile, liver and intestinal functions.

In her book THE FLAVORS OF OLIVE OIL: A Tasting Guide and Cookbook by Deborah Krasner (Simon & Schuster), Deborah Krasner demystifies the world of olive oil for us. Olives, just like wine grapes, respond directly to variations in climate, soil, cultivation, and harvest, so each oil is unique. By classifying olive oil in four distinct groups (delicate and mild; fruit and fragrant; olivey and peppery; and leafy-green and grassy), Krasner guides readers through the different characteristics of more than 150 different olive oils, providing a step by step tasting guide to the flavors and aromas of each one. She transports the reader to olive-oil- producing regions from Italy to Morocco to California. In addition, she incorporates olive oil into more than 100 delicious, mouthwatering recipes…from appetizers and small dishes to breads and desserts. Krasner showcases each type of oil and combines complementary flavors in recipes like Gingered Carrot Cake with Figs, "Hot" Chocolate Cake; and many more.

After reading the section on A Short Course on Olive Oil I was ready to hit to gourmet stores to purchase some olive oil and try some or her scrumptious recipes. I had learned that there are many factors that account for the taste of an oil, but the speed with which they are harvested and pressed is one of the most important factors that affect taste. Also that the most significant information is the date of harvest, since the olive oil loses fruitiness and flavor as it ages. Extra virgin olive oils having a very very low percentage of acidity are the best. The store I chose to shop at had over three dozen different kinds of olive oil. There was on infused with lemon, another with lime but they were over $20 a bottle and I wanted to bake a cake. Others had garlic, rosemary, sage or other herbs, some were "plain." It was mind boggling! Unfortunately, since it was evening, there was no one there to help me with my selection. In the end I chose Adatepe Olive Oil (from Anatolia.com), an oil that was harvested in Canakkale, in the Marmara region of Turkey (where homer wrote "The Illiad"). The olives had been organically grown and handpicked from a family estate. Since I was going to try the cake, I poured some of the oil into a glass jar, cut a lemon in thirds, squeezed some of the juice into the jar, put the lemons in the jar, shook it up, and let it sit out overnight. The cake turned out terrific…I could have eaten the whole thing myself.

NOT MY NANNA'S NOODLE KUGEL

• 3 tablespoons delicate and mild olive oil
• 12 oz package egg noodles
• 5 eggs
• 1 lb sour cream
• 1 lb cottage cheese
• 1 1/ 2 cups sugar
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 1/ 2 cup dried cranberries, raisins, or drained canned fruit

1. Preheat the oven to 350F. Using 1 tablespoon of the oil, grease a 9 x 12" lasagna pan.
2. Bring at least 6 quarts of salted water to a boil in a large pot. Add the noodles and cook just until done, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain well.
3. While the noodles are cooking, combine the eggs, sour cream, cottage cheese, sugar, cinnamon, vanilla, and cranberries and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large mixing bowl.
4. Add the noodles as soon as they are drained and mix them in.
5. Pour mixture into the greased pan and bake for 1 hour. Serve hot, cut in squares.
6. Serves 4 to 6.

OVEN ROASTED ASPARAGUS

• 1 lb fresh asparagus
• 2 tablespoons fruity and fragrant olive oil or lemon-infused olive oil
• coarse sea salt
• freshly ground pepper
• fresh lemon zest of freshly grated Parmesan cheese - optional

1. Preheat the oven to 500F. Preheat a cast iron frying pan or a roasting pan in the oven.
2. Wash and drain the asparagus, snapping off any woody ends.
3. Carefully remove the hot pan from the oven and place a little of the oil in the pan.
4. Place the asparagus on top of the oil, and pour the rest of the oil over the asparagus.
5. Toss or shake the pan until all the stalks are coated with the oil.
6. Return the pan to the oven and roast for 10 to 15 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally to make sure the asparagus aren't sticking.
7. After 10 minutes, remove a stalk and see if it is done to your liking. The goal is crisp-tender asparagus with slight char marks.
8. Remove them when done with tongs, leaving the oil behind in the pan. Serve, grating fresh lemon zest or cheese over the top if desired.
9. Serves 4.

LEMON-LIME PAN DI SPAGNA

This is an Italian version of sponge cake, not too rich, light in texture, and full of flavor.

• 1 1/ 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 cup sugar
• 1/ 2 teaspoon salt
• 4 eggs, separated
• grated zest of 1 lime
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• 2 tablespoons limoncello, other lemon liquor, or Grand Marnier
• 1/ 3 cup fruity and fragrant olive oil
• 1 teaspoon almond extract

1. Preheat the oven to 325F. Set out an ungreased 10" springform pan.
2. Place the flour, 2/3 cup of sugar, and the salt in a mixing bowl.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitter with the flat beater, mix together the egg yolks, lime zest, lime juice, limoncello, olive oil, and almond extract.
4. Beat until the mixture is pale yellow and smooth. Add the flour mixture and beat until just blended.
5. In another bowl beat the egg whites until soft peaks begin to form. Add the remaining
6. 1/ 3 cup sugar as you finish beating the whites until stiff.
7. Beat one third of the beaten whites into the batter mixture to lighten it.
8. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the rest of the beaten whites by hand.
9. Pour batter into the ungreased pan and bake on the middle shelf of the oven until dry in the center 45 to 50 minutes.
10. Cool the cake in the pan on a rack. When cool, run a knife around the edges to loosen the cake, and then remove the sides of the springform.
11. Serves 10 to 12.