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FEAST FROM THE MIDEAST By Sheilah Kaufman
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Americans are still discovering the vast contributions of the Middle East, an area that has had an immense impact on our food fundaments. Agriculture itself is said to have begun in the area that stretches from the Indian Ocean to the Mediterranean and encompasses landscapes that include mountains, desserts, and fertile coastal plains. There is evidence that some of our most basic foodstuffs like cultivated wheat, yeast-risen bread, cheese, and wine were first produced in this region.

In FEASTS FROM THE MIDEAST: 250 Sun-Drenched Dishes from the Lands of the Bible, Faye Levy (HaperCollins, NY) the recipes range from unhurried, slow-simmered meat, vegetables, and bean casseroles enlivened with spice, to rapid renditions of certain dishes using good-quality, timesaving ingredients. The Middle Eastern manner of preparing food is perfect for our time and corresponds to contemporary nutritionists' guidelines for healthful dining. Middle Eastern cooking is a relaxing cuisine, full of convenient dishes created in simple kitchens. These recipes are casual and down to earth, the kind that make you want to go right to the kitchen and start cooking.

JALAPENO SEA BASS WITH TOMATOES, POTATOES, and GARLIC

• 4 large garlic cloves, peeled
• 1/ 4 cup Italian parsley sprigs, plus 1 tablespoons chopped parsley for sprinkling
• 1 or 2 jalapeno peppers, cut in pieces, seeded if desired, or 1/ 2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
• 3 to 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 pound boiling potatoes, cooked, sliced about 1/ 2" thick
• salt
• freshly ground pepper
• 2 red, green, or yellow bell peppers, halved, cored, seeded, and cut into thin strips
• 1 1/ 2 lbs. ripe tomatoes, sliced 1/ 4" thick
• 2 lbs. fish steaks or fillets, such as sea bass, halibut, or cod 1" thick, rinsed and dried
• pinch cinnamon, optional
• 1/ 2 onion, cut into thin slices

Preheat oven to 375F. Combine garlic, parsley sprigs, and jalapeno peppers in food processor. Process to chop. Add 1 tablespoon oil and process until blended to a paste. Oil a shallow 2-quart casserole and arrange the potato slices inside in a single layer. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top with bell pepper strips then with half the tomato slices in one layer. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Top with fish in a single layer and spread spice paste evenly over it. Sprinkle fish with salt, pepper, and if you like, cinnamon. Top fish with onion slices, then with remaining tomatoes. Pour remaining oil evenly over the top. Cover and bake for 25 minutes, or until fish can just be flaked with a fork, but is not falling apart. Sprinkle with parsley and serve from the casserole. Serves 4 or 5.

ONION BRAISED CHICKEN WITH BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND LEMON

Lemon and onions are favorite flavors for chicken throughout the Mideast. Sometimes nutmeg is also used. Freshen the flavor with an extra squeeze of lemon juice at serving time.

• 2 1/ 2 lbs. chicken pieces
• salt
• freshly ground pepper
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 3 large onions, halved and sliced thin
• 2 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 cup chicken broth
• 2 to 2 1/ 2 cups diced butternut squash - l" cubes
• freshly grated nutmeg to taste
• 1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice or to taste
• 1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley - optional
• lemon wedges

Sprinkle chicken pieces with salt and pepper on both sides. Heat oil in a stew pan. Lightly brown chicken pieces in 2 batches in oil over medium heat. Remove with tongs to a plate. Add onions and cook over medium-low heat for 10 minutes or until softened. Return chicken to pan and add any juices from plate. Add garlic and broth. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Add squash, sprinkle it with nutmeg and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook for 20 to 25 minutes or until chicken and squash are tender, turning chicken pieces once or twice.

Remove chicken and squash pieces from pan but leave in onion. Skim fat from cooking liquid. Stir in lemon juice and add a little more nutmeg. Taste sauce and adjust seasoning. Return chicken and squash to pan. Cover and warm over low heat for about 3 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley if you like and serve hot, with lemon wedges."

YEMENITE-SPICED RICE PUDDING WITH MANGO

• 1 cup short grain rice, such as Arborio
• 6 cups water
• 4 cups milk
• 1 cinnamon stick
• pinch salt
• 6 tablespoons sugar
• 1/ 3 cup golden raisins - optional
• 1/ 2 to 1 teaspoon cardamom
• 2 to 3 tablespoons finely chopped candied ginger
• 2 or 3 ripe mangoes
• 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped toasted pistachios or almonds - optional

Choose a large heavy saucepan so the milk will not boil over or scorch. Bring 6 cups of water to a boil in saucepan and add rice. Boil, uncovered, for 7 minutes, drain well.

Bring milk and cinnamon stick to a simmer in same pan over medium-heat, stirring occasionally. Add rice and salt. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, uncovered for 15 minutes, or until rice is very soft and absorbs most of the milk, stirring often. Rice should look creamy, not soupy and not dry. Stir in sugar and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Remove from heat and stir in raisins, cardamom, and candied ginger. Remove cinnamon stick. Serve warm or cold. Before serving, peel and dice mangoes. Top each serving with generous amount of diced fruit and a sprinkling of pistachios. Serves 5 to 6.