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PASSOVER   By Sheilah Kaufman

IN every generation, each individual should feel that he or she personally had gone forth from Egypt, as it said: "And you shall tell your children on that day saying, this is on account of what the Eternal did for me, when I went forth from Egypt. For the Lord redeemed not only our ancestors; He redeemed us with them."

The Passover Seder is a blessed ritual meal that acts as a bridge between the generations, as well as an important lesson in Jewish history. For more than 3,000 years the Passover meal has been a link between today's Jewish families and their ancestors. How is it possible for an individual who has never seen Egypt or tasted slavery to identify with the miracle of redemption?

It is believed that Egypt is more than a geographic location and there are forms of bondage other than physical slavery. Beyond Passover's historical significance we must appreciate the concepts of slavery (which include intolerance, hatred and prejudice; poverty; inequality, and violence) and redemption in a spiritual sense, intensifying our awareness of these concepts until we actually feel ourselves leaving Egypt.

As family gathers around the table, the legacy is passed to the next generation. Of course food plays an important part in this celebration. After all, the tantalizing aromas of traditional foods are attached to our memories as firmly as the ceremonial table settings and traditional prayers.

As with all Jewish Holidays, there are many foods associated with Passover that have been served year after year, for generation after generation. Even though many people are tired of the "same-old, same-old", modern Jewish cooks find it hard to leave cherished traditions behind. How do you turn your back on a dish, when the tantalizing aroma reminds you of childhood seders at Grandma Ruth's house. Perhaps the solution is to continue to make Grandma's gefilte fish, but to have old meet new by slowly introducing some contemporary recipes as you plan your Passover meals. This year, why not start your own traditions in the kitchen by mixing new elements with the more familiar ones? With Simply Irresistible, Easy, Elegant, Fearless, Fussless recipes from around the (Ashkenazic and Sephardic) world you can cook and bake ahead (or freeze) dishes that only take about 20 to 30 minutes preparation time, don't make a big mess, taste fabulous, and your friends probably don't have the recipes.

In addition to leavened baked goods, corn, corn products, and peanuts among many other things, are also banned for Passover. One of the hardest items to forgo is corn as corn syrup is the major source of sweetening in soft drinks, candies, medicines, other syrups, energy bars and much more. Drinks like Coke and Pepsi are reformulated just for Passover, as are ketchup, mustard, and wines (just to name a few). Nut butters made from cashews, almonds, pecans, walnuts, and pine nuts are substituted for peanut butter (so you can make my Chocolate Cashew Nut Cheesecake Pie).

Proving themselves up the challenge, Jewish women through the ages, have been very creative in developing special dishes and substituting them for the ones normally eaten. The results are often delicious and memorable.

Traditionally, Sephardic Jews eat lamb for Passover. This tradition is in remembrance of the time when a year-old lamb was sacrificed and eaten on the eve of the holiday. Unlike the Ashkenazis, Sephardic Jews do use rice, corn, beans and peas during Passover. Certain vegetables have special symbolic significance to them. Because the early Hebrews ate broad beans during their captivity in Egypt, soups and other dishes made with broad beans are frequently eaten during Passover. Vegetables are a very prominent part of the Sephardic repertoire, and are found in all kinds of guises including in stews, with meatballs, combined with minced meat, mashed with cheese and eggs, partnered with legumes, and stuffed.

"We remember the fish, which we ate in Egypt for nothing; the cucumbers, and the melons, and the leeks, and the onions, and the garlic..." Numbers 11:5

SEPHARDIC HAROSET FROM TURKEY

  • 8 ounces pitted dates
  • 8 ounces raisins, dark or golden
  • 2 cups grated peeled apples
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped nuts
  • orange juice or wine to moisten.

Grind (chop in a processor or blender) all the fruits together. Moisten with juice or wine. Stir in nuts. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

CARROTS WITH GARLIC AND YOGURT

Carrots will never be the same after you've eaten this dish! Turkish zucchini can be used instead of the carrots, but a teaspoon of dried mint needs to be added to the dish.

  • 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 1 pound carrots, peeled and coarsely grated
  • 3 to 4 garlic cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup Drained Yogurt
  • 2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper or paprika
  • olives, optional

In a 3-quart pot, heat 5 tablespoons of the oil and sauté the onions, stirring over medium heat for 5 minutes. Do not let them brown or burn.
Add the carrots, stirring to mix well, and continue cooking for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.
Crush the garlic and salt in a mortar and pestle. Place the cooled carrots in a large bowl and add the drained yogurt and the garlic mixture. Mix well and place in a serving dish.
Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the paprika and drizzle in a design over the top of the carrots, decorate with olives if desired.
Serve at room temperature or chilled. Serves 8.

LEMON CREAM

Great with Passover sponge cake, in Passover crepes, or just spread it on matzoh or eat it with fruit.

  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 2/3 cup sugar
  • zest of one whole lemon
  • juice of one whole lemon
  • 4 ounces butter or margarine

To prepare the lemon cream, beat the whole eggs and extra yolk together, and gradually add the sugar and beat to blend.
Add the grated zest of the lemon and the lemon juice.
Add the butter and beat well. Place cream mixture in a heavy saucepan or double boiler and cook, stirring constantly, over low heat until the mixture thickens and coats a wooden spoon. Do not let the mixture boil.
When cream is thick, pour mixture into a bowl and place the bowl in another bowl filled with ice or ice water to cool quickly and prevent overcooking. Stir occasionally.
Refrigerate in a covered bowl or jar until ready for use.

FUDGE ROLL

This was one of the most sought after recipes of Mrs. Kaplan, a famous Newton, Mass. caterer. Don't serve this unless you are willing to share the recipe with your friends!

  • 6 large eggs, separated, and at room temperature
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 6 oz semisweet chocolate chips
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 2 Tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
  • 1 pint heavy cream

    Preheat oven to 350 F.
    In a large bowl, with an electric mixer at medium speed, beat the egg yolks and sugar until thick and lemon colored - about 5 minutes.
    In the top of a double boiler, over hot water, melt the chocolate with the water. Remove from heat and let cool.
    When chocolate has cooled to room temperature, add it to the egg yolk mixture.
    Thoroughly wash the beaters and bowl, and with the mixer at low speed, beat the egg whites until bubbles begin to form. Turn mixer to high and continue beating until stiff.
    Carefully fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture.
    Grease an l0"x15" jelly roll pan and line it with waxed paper.
    Grease and flour the waxed paper.
    Spread the batter evenly around the pan and bake at 350 F for 20 minutes. Do not overbake.
    Remove the pan from the oven and cover the cake with a lightly dampened linen dishtowel.
    Leave the cloth on the cake for 15 minutes ...it will help draw out the heat so the cake will roll.
    Place another lightly damp cloth on a flat surface and cover it with a piece of waxed paper that is 17" long.
    Sprinkle the cocoa evenly over the waxed paper.
    Invert the cake onto the cocoa covered paper. Carefully peel off the waxed paper that the cake was baked with.
    Place the cake on a long platter or a cookie sheet covered in aluminum foil.
    Whip the cream until soft peaks form.
    Spread 3/4 of the cream over the cake to within l" of all edges.
    Roll the cake up lengthwise, removing the waxed paper as you roll.
    Ice the cake, if desired, with remaining cream.
    Refrigerate until serving. Serves 10 to 12.

 
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