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MEDITERRANEAN FLAVORS FOR A NEW YEAR Special to the Washington Post Celebratory meals have always been a central part of Jewish life, transcending time and linking generations. The events serve many purposes: to unite families, to honor customs, to preserve traditions, to observe a sacred day and to share the bounty of food. As such, many of these meals focus on foods that are seasonal as well as symbolic. For Rosh Hashanah -- which begins at sundown Friday -- to ensure a positive new year, for example, families eat sweet foods, especially honey, with the hope that if they avoid sour and bitter food they will "prevent" an unpleasant year. On the second night of the holiday, "new" fruits of the season are eaten, the most popular being pomegranates (with the seeds symbolizing all the good deeds one should do in the new year) and grapes. Tradition is important, with some ingredients so loaded with meaning that a Rosh Hashanah feast is unimaginable without them. Fish is a symbol of fruitfulness; lamb is a reminder of the ram substituted as a sacrifice for Abraham's son, Isaac, and of the shofar (the ram's horn blown on the holiday); seasonal vegetables such as leeks and beets signify abundance. Yet in today's world, many Jewish families want to add new dishes to their traditional menus or at least to adjust the flavoring of some long-held recipes. Here are some to start some new dining traditions in your home. Tamar's Yemenite Chicken Soup (8 first-course or 4 main-course servings. In Yemenite culture, countless variations on this soup are consumed prior to the fast of Yom Kippur.
Place the chicken in a large pot and add enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium or medium-low and simmer, skimming any foam, for about 10 minutes. Add the onions, carrots, white parts of the leeks and the parsley; cover partially; reduce heat to low and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Add the potatoes, squash, bouillon cubes, Hawayij or turmeric and cumin. Simmer, partially covered, until chicken is cooked through and potatoes and squash are tender, about 45 minutes. Add the cilantro and green parts of the leeks and cook for 10 minutes. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, carefully remove the chicken from the pot; set the soup and chicken aside to cool slightly. Strain the soup, discarding the solids. Remove and discard the chicken skin; tear or cut the chicken meat into pieces and return it to the soup. Taste and season with salt and pepper to taste. Per serving (based on 8): 411 calories, 31 gm protein, 20 gm carbohydrates, 23 gm fat, 114 mg cholesterol, 7 gm saturated fat, 408 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber Hawayij (Makes about 5 tablespoons). Hawayij, which goes under a variety of spellings, is a blend of spices common to Yemenite cooking. Use it as flavoring for soups and stews or as a rub for meat and poultry prior to grilling or roasting.
Using a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder, pound or grind the peppercorns, caraway, saffron and cardamom until well blended. Stir in the turmeric. May transfer to a covered container and store at room temperature. Roast Fish Stuffed With Dates, Rice and Ginger (4 servings). The dates -- which represent beauty and peace -- bring a slight sweetness to this lightly spiced whole fish. The size of whole fish can vary dramatically; generally, a three-pound fish will amply serve four guests.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil a roasting pan large enough to accommodate the fish. Season the exterior of the fish with salt and pepper. Set aside. In a small bowl, combine the dates, rice and 1 teaspoon of the ginger. Stuff the rice mixture into the cavity of the fish. Use toothpicks or a bamboo skewer to close the cavity. Season the outside of the fish with ginger and cinnamon (if using) to taste and then rub with enough oil to coat the fish (this prevents it from drying out). Place the onion slices in a single layer in the prepared pan and top with the stuffed fish. Using aluminum foil, loosely cover the head and tail (if you have not removed them) to prevent them from burning. Pour the wine around the fish. Roast, uncovered, until the fish flakes easily with a fork, about 45 minutes, depending on the size. Using 2 wide spatulas, carefully transfer the fish to a serving platter. Remove the toothpicks or skewer from the cavity opening and spoon the stuffing around the fish. Using a sharp knife, make a small slice through the skin behind the fin and, using a fork, roll the skin from the fish. Serve immediately. Per serving: 820 calories, 91 gm protein, 30 gm carbohydrates, 36 gm fat, 249 mg cholesterol, 7 gm saturated fat, 304 mg sodium, 4 gm dietary fiber Green Beans, Greek Style (6 servings). The beans and vinaigrette for this side dish may be made well in advance and chilled but do not toss the beans with the vinaigrette until just prior to serving.
Trim the ends from the beans. If desired, cut the beans in half. Bring a medium saucepan with a small amount of water to a boil. Add the beans, reduce the heat to medium and cook just until the beans are bright green but still slightly crisp, about 2 minutes. Immediately transfer the beans to a strainer and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking. Transfer the beans to a single layer on a clean towel, roll into a log and refrigerate. In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, mustard and salt and pepper to taste. Whisking constantly, slowly add the oil in a steady stream, whisking until emulsified. Add the onion and stir. (May cover and refrigerate until serving.) To serve, place the chilled beans in a serving dish. Whisk the dressing to recombine and drizzle it over the beans. Garnish, if desired, with chopped Greek olives. Per serving: 120 calories, 2 gm protein, 9 gm carbohydrates, 9 gm fat, trace cholesterol, 1 gm saturated fat, 63 mg sodium, 4 gm dietary fiber Pomegranate Ice (8 to 10 servings). Use an ice cream maker for a creamy sorbet-type of dessert; use a fork and a shallow bowl or ice trays for an ice with a coarser consistency. Either one is equally refreshing. From Judy Zeidler's "The Gourmet Jewish Cook" (William Morrow, 1999).
In a large bowl, combine the pomegranate and lemon juices and sugar syrup and mix well. If using an ice cream maker: Transfer the mixture to the machine and process according to the manufacturer's directions. Transfer to a container and freeze until the ice is completely set. If using a fork: Pour the mixture into flat-bottomed ice cube trays without the dividers or a freezer-proof shallow glass bowl. Transfer to the freezer and stir with a fork every hour, scraping from the sides into the center. Continue stirring and freezing until the ice is set, about 3 to 4 hours. To serve, place about 1/2 cup of the ice flakes in a dessert dish or martini glass. *Note: Sugar syrup, or simple syrup, is a combination of water and sugar that is boiled over low heat until clear. Used to sweeten drinks and various desserts, it commonly uses equal amounts of water and sugar. To make sugar syrup, in a large pot over medium heat, combine 3 cups sugar and 3 cups water and stir until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a slow rolling boil, reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 5 minutes. Transfer to a glass container, set aside to cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until chilled through. Per serving: 210 calories, trace protein, 55 gm carbohydrates,0 gm fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 gm saturated fat, 42 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber Sheilah Kaufman is the author of "Sephardic Israeli Cuisine: A Mediterranean Mosaic" (Hippocrene, 2002). |
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