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JANUARY - A GOOD MONTH FOR TRYING NEW DISHES AND TRAVELING VICARIOUSLY THROUGH BOOKS   By Sheilah Kaufman

The best thing about January, other than my birthday, is that the days begin to get longer again and I feel that Spring is on the way.  January is also a time for me to test new recipes and eat away the winter blues and read about places I want to go.  So try these favorites from around the world and while-away the month eating these delicious dishes.

LAND OF MILK AND HONEY CUSTARD-LAYERED CORNBREAD

This is a magical, surprising cornbread.  An improbably thin, eggy, milky batter bakes into a tri-part cornbread with a thin but distinct layer of voluptuous custard sandwiched between a cornbready bottom layer and a light topping of the risen bran and corn kernels. From award winning food writer Crescent Dragonwagon's The Cornbread Gospels (Workman Publishing). While testing the recipes for this book Crescent discovered that parrots love cornbread, leading a friend of mine who was not paying attention when I told her about this great book, to say "She wrote a cookbook for parrots!"  The book is chockfull of terrific recipes and interesting information.

  • vegetable oil for cooking spray
  • 1 cup stone-ground yellow or white cornmeal
  • 1/ 2 cup whole wheat pastry flour
  • 1/ 2 cup unbleached white flour
  • 2 1/ 4 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1/ 2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/ 3 cup honey
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • 3 1/ 4 cups milk
  • 2 large eggs
  • kernels cut for 2 or 3 ears of fresh corn or frozen, defrosted, rinsed off plus 2 tablespoons liquid
Preheat oven to 350F.  Spray a 9x11-inch baking pan with oil.  Stir together the cornmeal, flours, baking powder, sugar, and salt in a small bowl to blend well.  Set aside.

Gently warm the honey and butter in a medium-size pan over medium-low heat until the honey thins slightly and the butter melts.  Whisk in the milk, and then the eggs.

Combine the wet and dry mixtures, whisking a few times.  Gaze suspiciously at the batter, which will look too thin.  Stir in the fresh corn kernels.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake until top of cornbread is golden brown and springs back when lightly touched, 45 to 50 minutes.  Let cool for at least 30 minutes to give the custard a chance to fully set up before cutting into the cornbread, but do serve it warm.  Makes 12 squares.  

SHRIMP WITH LONGJING TEA

Cooking with tea is both fun and easy. Think of tea as an ingredient—use green or oolong tea to create flavorful yet delicate infusions when poaching, steaming, braising, or marinating fish or shellfish. These teas are also useful in creating flavorful big-bowl noodle dishes. For marinating pork, beef, or chicken, use brewed black or oolong tea to add a flavor boost. Pluck the tea leaves from your teapot and finely chop them, then add as you would greens to rice dishes, stir-fries, or savory meat sauces. You might include tea leaves in your savory fillings for homemade dumplings. The flavor of tea never overpowers. It is a versatile seasoning that can also be used for adding a delicate hint of color to sauces, fruit desserts, and breakfast smoothies. Follow the Japanese example and add matcha powder for flavor and to bring about a bright, emerald-green color to cakes, cookies, puddings, and ice cream.

Tea is rich in healthful antioxidants as well as in vitamins A, B, E, and K. From these leaves we can obtain a wealth of minerals, such as chlorophyll, copper, fluoride, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium. Vegetable soups and light broths can benefit from the subtle flavor that tea contributes; use brewed tea instead of water and you are building in flavor as well as adding vitamins and healthful antioxidants.

This specialty of the city of Hangzhou was created to feature that region’s famous Longjing (Dragon Well) tea. The tea’s slightly toasty flavor perfectly underscores the sweetness of the shrimp. On the Heiss’ first tea-buying adventure in China they dined at the sumptuous wood-paneled Shang Palace restaurant in the elegant Shangri La Hotel in Hangzhou, and could not wait to try the Shrimp in Longjing tea sauce. This is their version of that delicious dish. From their fabulous new book The Story of Tea  A Cultural History and Drinking Guide  by Mary Lou and Robert J. Heiss (10 Speed Press).  This book is a sweeping tour through the world of tea, its ifluence across the globe, a complete reference for choosing, drinking, and enjoying this venerable beverage, and includes beautiful photos. Pour yourself a cup of tea and read away.

  • 1 tablespoon Longjing tea leaves
  • 1 cup water
  • 2 tablespoons plus 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch
  • 2 teaspoons ground white pepper
  • 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, and rinsed
  • 2 tablespoons plus 2 tablespoons peanut oil
  • 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
  • 1 teaspoon soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon sesame oil
  • 1 tablespoon aged rice vinegar
  • 2 ounces fresh snow peas, strings removed
  • 2 ounces green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces on the diagonal
  • 1/4 cup scallions, cut into 1/2-inch pieces on the diagonal

Place the tea leaves in a teapot or heatproof measuring cup. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then remove from the heat and let cool for 3 minutes. Pour the water over the tea leaves and brew for 3 minutes. Strain the tea and reserve the tea leaves and the brewed tea for later use.

Place 2 tablespoons of the cornstarch on a plate and add the white pepper. Mix well. Pat the shrimp dry and roll them in the mixture one at a time. Set aside.

Heat a wok or skillet over medium heat for 1 minute. Add 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil and heat for an additional 30 seconds. Add the shrimp and stir to prevent sticking. Cook the shrimp for 2 minutes, or until it turns pink and opaque. Quickly remove from the pan and drain the shrimp on paper towels.

Mix the oyster sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, and rice vinegar in a bowl and set aside. Add a few tablespoons of brewed tea to the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch and stir to make a smooth paste. Add the remaining1/2 cup of the brewed tea and stir to dissolve. Set aside.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons peanut oil to the pan and heat on medium-high for 30 seconds. Add the snow peas and green beans and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the cooked shrimp and scallions and heat for 1 minute. Add the tea leaves and the oyster sauce mixture. Heat for 1 minute. Finally, add the tea and cornstarch mixture and cook for 1 minute, adding a few tablespoons of water to the sauce if it becomes too thick, Serve hot.  Serves 4 to 6.

PAVLOVA

From the Land DownUnder comes a lovely new travel book Waltzing Australia by Cynthia A. Clampitt  a marvelous tale of  the travels ( with photos on her blog)  of a sensible woman in her mid-30’s who walks away from money, security, career just to make a dream come true.  Clampitt covered nearly 20,000 miles discovering Australia and herself in the process.  Here are some of her favorite Australian recipes.

This light and luscious dessert was named for the great ballerina. New Zealand also lays claim to this dessert, and there is no definitive proof as to who really created it first. The main difference between Pavlovas in the two countries would be the topping: in Australia, you’d most likely see passion fruit, while in New Zealand, kiwi fruit would be a more common topper. (And it’s kiwi fruit, by the way, not kiwi – kiwi is a bird, or a nickname for New Zealanders – Americans may not care, but Kiwis do.) A nice combo of blueberries and sliced strawberries would be attractive and tasty, but would make this a Pavlova Americana. Enjoy. 

Base:

  • 4 large egg whites
  • 1 cup superfine sugar
  • 1 tsp. white vinegar
  • 2 tsp. cornstarch
Topping:
  • 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 1/12 Tbs. granulated sugar
  • 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
  • fruit (see notes)

Place oven rack in center of oven. Preheat oven to 250F.

In a large, clean bowl, beat the egg whites on medium-high speed until they hold soft peaks. Start adding the sugar, a tablespoon at a time, and continue to beat until the meringue holds very stiff peaks. Sprinkle the cornstarch and vinegar on top of the meringue and beat a bit more, until stiff again.

Now you make your meringue cake. Opinions differ as to how to approach this. You can put down a sheet of baking parchment and draw a 7-inch circle in the middle. You might also get a pastry bag and pipe a circle and then fill it with a perfectly even rope of meringue. I just guesstimate the circle size and spoon the meringue onto the baking sheet, spreading it into a circle of about the right size. Do what works best for you (that is, pick a method that makes it likely you won’t write this recipe off as too complicated). Also, baking parchment might make it easier to get the meringue off the pan. I have used it. I have also just sprayed a cookie sheet lightly with baking spray, and I’ve had it slide off with no trouble.

Anyway, whatever method you choose, you now have a circle of meringue, looking rather like a single cake layer and a little more than an inch deep, on your baking sheet. Put it in the oven and bake it for 1 hour 15 minutes, or until the outside is dry and takes on a very pale cream color. Turn the oven off, leave the oven door slightly ajar, and let the meringue cool completely before removing from the oven.

Set the meringue aside until just before you plan on serving the dessert. Then, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Add the sugar and vanilla, and beat to incorporate. Spread the whipped cream across the top of the meringue. Decorate with the fruit you’ve chosen, and serve. Serves 6 to 8.

Notes: If you’re using passion fruit, you’ll need 10. For kiwi fruit, four or five should do the trick. For berries (blueberries, raspberries, sliced strawberries, blackberries), you need about a cup.

The meringue can be made a couple of days in advance. Once it is completely cool, put it in an airtight container and keep it someplace cool and dry.

It’s important that you don’t complete the dessert until you’re ready to serve it. The acid in the fruit will break down the whipped cream and the whipped cream will make the meringue soggy. If you don’t want to serve all 6 to 8 servings at once, you can either cut up the meringue and just add whipped cream and fruit as you serve it (not so great on presentation, but the taste is the same), or you can make a couple of smaller meringues.

WINTER TWLIGHT

Nightfall comes early during the winter months, affording us the opportunity to settle in by the fire and dream the evening away.  Serving this sophisticated drink in glassware reveals its splendid jewel-tone color, which mirrors the deep hues of a drown-out midwinter sunset. From HOT DRINKS Cider, Coffee, Tea, Hot Chocolates, Spiced Punch, Spirits by Mary Lou Heiss and Robert J. Heiss (Ten Speed Press).  A lovely book for the fall and cold winter months, with photographs that will have you wanting to try everything!
  • 1 cup pomegranate juice
  • 1 tablespoon Chambord
  • 1/4 cup cognac
  • 1 slice of lemon, halved, for garnish – optional
Put the pomegranate juice in a small pan over medium heat and bring to a low simmer.  Lower the heat, add the Chambord and cognac, and simmer gently until just heated through, about 2 minutes.  Put a half a slice of lemon in each of 2 heatproof footed glasses, divide the potion equally, and enjoy.

PUMPKIN LASAGNA

Originally I saw a recipe for Pumpkin Lasagna when I was teaching cooking in Ft. Meyer, Florida recently. I tore it out of the paper determined to try it, and between there and home, I managed  to loose it.  Imagine my surprise when I was flipping through a copy of  Welcome to Our Table  Season Recipes from Acorn Hill at a holiday Bazaar at the Waldorf School and there was a recipe for Pumpkin Lasagna!  That was all I needed to see to add this book to my collection, plus, of course, the wonderful collection of international and family favorite recipes. www.acornhill.org.
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 onions, chopped
  • 2 lbs. Swiss chard or spinach, stems removed and chopped
  • 2 1/4 teaspoons salt, divided
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, divided
  • 1 teaspoon dried sage, divided
  • 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg, divided
  • 28 ounce can pumpkin puree, divided
  • 1 1/2 cups heavy cream, divided
  • 1 1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese, divided
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 9 no boil lasagna noodles (6 oz)
  • 1 tablespoon butter
Preheat oven to 400F.  In a large nonstick frying pan, heat the oil over moderately low heat.  Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally until translucent, about 5 minutes.  Increase heat to moderately high and add the Swiss chard or spinach, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/ 2 teaspoon pepper, 1/ 2 teaspoon sage, and 1/ 4 teaspoon nutmeg.  Cook, stirring , until the chard is wilted and no liquid remains in the pan, about 5 to 10 minutes.

In a medium bowl mix together 2 cups of pumpkin, 3/ 4 cup heavy cream, and the remaining 1 1/ 4 teaspoon salt, 1/ 2 teaspoon pepper, 1/ 2 teaspoon sage, and 1/ 4 teaspoon nutmeg.

Pour the milk  into an 8 x 12-inch baking dish.  Top with 1/ 3 of the noodles, then spread half of the pumpkin mixture over the noodles.  Layer half of the chard over the pumpkin and top with a second layer of noodles.

Mix together the remaining 1 cup of pumpkin and 3/ 4 cup of cream.  Spread the mixture evenly over the top of the lasagna. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 cup of cheese and dot with the butter.

Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 20  minutes.  Uncover and bake until golden, about 15 minutes more.

Serves 8.

ENGLISH STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING

An English and Australian treat from  Alexandra Greeley’s long awaited  Kitchen Memories (Capital Books). The book: a compilation of family recipe collected from 25 different countries, with stories about the recipes and the families.

Pudding:
  • 6 ounces pitted dates
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
  • 3/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2 cups cake flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Sauce:
  • 1 cup brown sugar
  • 6 tablespoons heavy cream
  • 1 cup (2 sticks) butter
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 2-quart ovenproof baking dish..

Soak the dates in 1 cup water. Bring to the boil, and remove from the heat. Add the baking soda, and let stand.

Meanwhile, cream the butter and sugar until smooth; add the eggs, beating, well. Fold in the flour, and stir in the dates with the water and the vanilla. Pour into the baking dish.

Bake for 30 to 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the sauce by heating the brown sugar, cream, butter, and vanilla in a small saucepan over low heat, and continue cooking and stirring until the sugar dissolves and the mixture become syrupy; stir often. When the pudding is firm in the center, pour ˝ cup of sauce over the pudding, and continue baking 10 minutes more. Reserve the remaining sauce to serve with the pudding.

6 servings
 
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